Sealant?

[AndyH]

Hi,

I've been looking at the gaps in some of the metal panels in and around the cockpit..

I can't see it being water tight, so had thought about sealing the gaps with silicone and then wondered if there was a motorsport equivalent that would be better for the job and meets any scruitineering (can't be spelt right and spell check has failed me!) requirements for competition.

Has anyone any recommendations?

Cheers
Andrew

[Andrew Way]

My mate who works in a body shop gave me some polyurethane seam sealer. It comes in grey, white or black in 310ml cartridges, made by “Trade” but I expect 3M do an equivalent at twice the price. Its great stuff as it can be painted (even whilst wet) and once it’s gone off its still flexible. It sticks like **** to a blanket, in fact it is used as a structural adhesive for plastic wheel arches and the like.

I don’t know about its use in motorsport though but as it’s used on production cars I see no reason why you can’t use it. I’ve done every internal panel on my HF3000 in case I want to make it amphibious at a later date.:D

Andrew.

[colin artus]

If its the motorsport variety of product you want ( ie more expensive but highest quality) then try Wurth UK for sealants. Its what all the motorsport teams use although I dont think it makes that much of a difference.

Colin

[chris.richard]

This is what I'm using.

cbs polyurethane adhesive / sealer (http://www.nfauto.co.uk/poly_sealant.htm)

or dum-dum

[Andrew Way]

This is a bit cheaper....

http://www.bodyshopwarehouse.co.uk/default.asp?go=1&prodid=3101

but I don't know what the MOQ is.

It's worth having a practice dispensing it and then smoothing it of with a wet finger (very light pressure) as you can get a really smart looking bead.

[AndyH]

Thanks very much for the suggestions.. much appreciated.

So much to do..................

Another question though.

What does the light at the end of the tunnel look like?.
There's no bulb in mine just now and I think the powers been cut as well !!

cheers

Andrew

[Andrew Way]

I get the feeling the light gets dimmer the nearer you get toward it:rolleyes:

[Steve Strain]

I have been searching the forum for ideas on how to seal the cavity immediately in front of the chassis (behind the front wheels) where the door hinges mount. I have searched "sealer" and have picked on this thread.
I wondered if anyone out there had any tips on how to do this or any definite don’ts.

As this has been on my list of things to do for a while I recently tested how easily water can get out of this cavity when washing the car. As expected after a short while it started to run out the rear of car along with dust, leaves, dead insects and the odd long lost washer.
To dry it out I put the vacuum cleaner on blow down the front cavity and could feel a warm draft exiting around the rear chassis.

Sealing the rear bulk head area around the body and chassis rail makes very good sense reducing noise and fumes into the cab and I have seen this done with expandable foam. But the down side of this is that it will stop any moisture exiting the rear unless the front cavity is adequately sealed.

My fear is that rust would in time develop between the fiberglass and the lower body chassis due to this trapped moisture. Indeed after 14 years driving the car there is in one spot below the drivers door (a slight bulge) where I fear rust may have already started.

My question is would expandable foam be okay for sealing this front cavity (appropriately shaped to make water exit from the gap around the front edge of the door) or is another product better?

I am concerned that the foam would might be too porous and perhaps compound the situation.

I am thinking the first step now would be to put the car on a slope (front up) and pour in some rust kill stuff, then a liquid rust proof wax (like Tectyl), then finally seal the front cavity.

Any recommendations discussion greatly accepted please

Cheers

Steve

[strat6v]

I used expanding foam, then literally smeared a big blob of said sealer over the top, covering it all over. Do a trial bit off the car to make sure you don't get a reaction, maybe wet your finger out with 50/50 water/washing up liquid so it doesn't stick to your finger and drag. check for a reaction there too.

[Steve Poole]

Interesting topic can anybody post some pictures to clarify the problem ie gaps before and after. I was reading some threads about body alignments and this should go hand in hand as part of the described and visual build process. Is this more of a problem with Hawks or are all the available kits prone to it? Feedback on fit should go back to Hawk i guess but they're probably used to sorting these problems in-house. Only private builders will struggle - what does it say in the build manual?

Steve

[catswhiskers]

I use 'Tiger Seal' to bond tub to chassis, seal gaps, waterproof seams etc. readily available from most body/paint outlets.
Easy to use and smooth over. Also overpaintable. :)
Basic description here.
http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=3319


Mick

[chris.richard]

- what does it say in the build manual?


:D :D ROFL :D :D

[Steve Poole]

Hi Chris,

How you doing? Whats ROFL? :confused: Me brains gone dead! :o

Steve

[chris.richard]

Roll On Floor Laughing

[Steve Poole]

DOH! (Homer Simpson) :D

And i take from that you are well :)

Steve

[chris.richard]

It's because the Hawk build manual is legendary. ;)