164 crankshafts (12v)

[roger001]

Can any one confirm that the first big end journal on the crank is supossed to have a large groove machined into it, associated with the journal oil way.
Cos if its not supposed to be there something is mighty wrong with the crank I have. The manual does not have any pictures or mention this groove.
I dont particularly want to dismantle my other engine just to check!!

[AndyH]

Roger,

I remember similar when I re-built my engine.

Have you tackled the "cigarette seals " on the main bearing cover yet??

Andrew

[roger001]

I presume you mean the two black rubber cylindrical seals on the rear (flywheel end) main bearing.

They popped out quite hapilly with the bearing cap. what sort of problem can they cause?

I'm waiting to borrow a micrometer big enough to check the journals, the 1st Big end shell was quite badly worn as was one of the thrust washers, the other bearings did not show too much in the way of signs of abose.

The bores appear in good nick with hone marks still visable, I'll get round to checking ring gaps etc in good time.

Apert from spending an arm and leg getting hold of a gasket set, hope fully all It will need is new shells/ water pump -oh and if any one has a spare rear bank cloverleaf cam they want to sell let me know.

[AndyH]

Roger,
yes, the "cigarette seals" are the rubber ones.

If you do some surfing ref "cigarette seals" you'll see that they are mostly to blame for oil leaks that start about 1000 miles after re-build.

Lots of views on correct insertion etc.. best bit of advice I saw was to put some threadlock in before the seal (and on the seals.. this also helps lubricate a you push them in) and then hammer well and truly into place. You will either need to buy the Alfa tool for insertion or cobble together a tapered tube to get the seals in.

I made one from brass and it's a bit crude, but seemed to work. However I've only done 150 miles since the re-build.

If you're interested I'll post down the tool I made up if that would be useful ??

My engine had done 105K and looked like a cylinder head gasket had gone.. this proved to be right. At this point I started out to change the head gasket only... then a few seals... then a look at the bearings etc....

The main and big ends looked worn, but the crank was perfect. It's a nitride coated crank, so you're not supposed to grind them, but I'm sure you probably can if that's what is needed.

The piston to liner clearance was borderline, and the rings were well gunked up. I initially only went to change the rings, but found that the cheapest I could get a set of rings for was £120. I ended up going for a new set of pistons / liners and rings @ circa £400....t hen you end up in the "better do the oil pump and water pump and hell, I'll change the hydraulic tensioner to mechanical".
Bottom line is that it cost a fortune, but is virtually a brand new engine.

Good luck

Andrew

[CorseChris]

Originally posted by AndyH
The main and big ends looked worn, but the crank was perfect. It's a nitride coated crank, so you're not supposed to grind them, but I'm sure you probably can if that's what is needed.


Word of caution for anyone needing a crank grind on a V6 - make absolutely sure that the machinist has the new shells BEFORE you let them start work and also make sure you can get the whole lot balanced properly again. It'll also need Nitriding again as well.

[AndyH]

If anyone is struggling to get non-std shells for big ends or main bearings on an Alfa V6, it looks like International Auto Parts in the States do them.

Prices look good, but remmber that you will be stung for VAT and import duty on top.

Andrew

[vojx]

Would a "cigarette seal" stop my wife smoking? I could really do with all that money that's going up in smoke. Or is it the replacement for the ubiquitous laboratory dog? (PS my chemicals are only tested on (careless) humans)