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AndyH
November 3rd, 2003, 04:13 AM
I've spent the weekend working on fitting the steering column into my HAWK. I can't see another thread on this topic, so wondered if anyone else has had the problem described below.

I've now cut a great big hole in the bulkhead to get the steering rack coupling through (comes with splined shaft from Gerry), so now got some space to work in.

Fitted the Beta intermediate shaft to this splined shaft and run it through the aluminium block supplied with the kit.

Two problems immediately became obvious.

The steering column would need spacers of around 30-40mm to allow me to bolt it to the bracket on the chassis.

The lower Beta UJ fouls the brake pedal strengthening gusset.

In frustration, I've ground / filed an angle on the top aluminium block to force the beta shaft to come up quicker.

This has allowed me to create enough clearance for the UJ to ckear the brake pedal and now means that I have a minimum (6mm spacer) needed to mount the X1/9 column to the chassis.

I'm now wondering if the steering wheel is too high !!

It's hard to judge.. If you can picture me sitting in the cockpit on a kiddie booster seat holding onto the steering wheel with a puzzled look, you're about there !!!

Does this make sense to anyone??

Any advice gratefully received.

Andrew

colin artus
November 3rd, 2003, 05:08 AM
Its so long since I did this job on a car that my memory is too foggy to be of much help. However I vaguely recall rotating the steering rack to aid the alignment of the pinion shaft slightly downward.
More importantly you could improve the whole steering assembly by replacing the aly block bearing with a proper roller bearing. They are available in mountable housings from any bearing suppliers. Fitting does entail cutting the intermedite shaft to install the bearing and then rewelding the shaft and that job should be done by a competent TIG welder. If you were ever going to do this now would be the time, before you install the dash. The plain block bearing can bind and requires regreasing from time to time. Also the higher level of friction removes some of the feel/feedback from the system and reduces the selfcentering action. Its a big improvement for about £20.

Colin

vojx
November 3rd, 2003, 07:55 AM
Ayrton Senna springs to mind

colin artus
November 3rd, 2003, 09:20 AM
How do you think those UJs got on the shaft in the first place?
:)
Colin

AndyH
November 3rd, 2003, 09:31 AM
Thanks Colin,
I did think the aly blocks were a bit naff, but hadn't got around to thinking about what to do. Thanks for the tip.
Andrew

Sando
November 3rd, 2003, 01:03 PM
Hi Andy
I can sympathise with you fully on this one, pain in the backside to get right. I had exactly the same problem.
I ended up spacing the top mounting by about 10mm to bring it back down. The original builder had also drilled out the spotwelds on the upper mounting (X1/9 top shaft I think) and welded it back on down towards the footwell slightly.
The alloy block also needed moving slightly to a different angle by redrilling one of the holes. I had to clean up the shaft / Alloy block to make it a good, but free fit. As Colin says this will need greasing now and then. There are also two bushes in the column that may need cleaning up to keep everything free, one of mine was worn but I couldn't get it out, so I just tapped a new one in behind it and it's fine!

I didn't go to the trouble this time but another trick I've done in the past is using a big rose joint, it still entails perhaps cutting the shaft (in this case) as described, but has the advantage of having the thread already part of the housing to mount to a fabricated bracket.

cheers
Rob:cool:

vojx
November 4th, 2003, 03:09 AM
Originally posted by colin artus
How do you think those UJs got on the shaft in the first place?
:)
Colin
;p

BAS
November 4th, 2003, 10:22 AM
I set the steering column to a height that suited me and then cut a sleeved the intermediate shaft to fit the gap. I did consider using a rose joint but ended up sticking with alloy block. I also had a new set of peddles made up to avoid the uj's.

I can take some photos if that would help.

As I'm still building the kit so can't comment on the self centering action.

AndyH
November 4th, 2003, 12:17 PM
Brent,

A photo would be great... New peddles sounds potentially good... I guess that included a new throttle pedal arrangement.??

Andrew

BAS
November 4th, 2003, 03:24 PM
Here are some photos of the peddles, I'll take some more showing the column later.

BAS
November 4th, 2003, 03:31 PM
and another

BAS
November 4th, 2003, 03:37 PM
and another

BAS
November 4th, 2003, 03:40 PM
one more

AndyH
November 5th, 2003, 02:07 AM
Thanks for the pics Brent,

I was expecting the kit to be difficult to build, but I had hoped that the basic bolting together would have been reasonably straightforward.
C'est la vie....
I still smile every time I open the garage door
(and usually frown as I leave!!)

I think I'm going to change the Aly block for a bearing and leave like that until I get the seats and dash in and can get a decent feel for the driving position.

Thanks again
Andrew

BAS
November 8th, 2003, 01:59 AM
Here are some more photos with the steering column fitted.
I still have the drawings for the peddles if you are interested, but they may need some alterations as the brackets for the peddle box maybe different.

BAS
November 8th, 2003, 02:00 AM
and another

BAS
November 8th, 2003, 02:03 AM
From above

AndyH
November 8th, 2003, 05:41 AM
Thanks Brent,

By the looks of the photos, you've cut a few inches out of the Beta Intermediate shaft??

I've no seat in the car yet, so it's hard to judge the driving position, but my column set-up looks to be a good 2-3 inches further out.

Thanks for the pics... I'll may come back to you re the peddle drawings when I'm a bit further down the build.
Thanks agin
Andrew

BAS
November 8th, 2003, 10:54 AM
Andy

The Intermediate shaft will need to be shortened to suit the position of the column, it's best to fit the seat and get a driving possition you like first then ajust the shaft.