Wanted - Alfa 24v Engine mount

[Sando]

Hiya
Just spotted a crack in my alloy oil filter / cross shaft bearing housing 'foot'

Anyone got one going spare?
Not sure which one it is on the car as it was converted from Auto so it could be 164 12 or 24v, or one of the later 24v ones not sure. The main difference I've seen is that some have the Oil filter at 90 deg others at an angle. the one I have is at an angle and has two oil cooler take offs on the side to go to an Air/Oil cooler.

It's going to have to come off anyway, but I'd rather try another mounting and sort the connections out than get this one welded if I can.

Ta
Bobster

[roger001]

They are very hard to come by as most breakers will not split an engine in order to supply this part, I have spare auto one but yours is probably manual ( the drive shaft bearing is set futher to the rear in the auto ) If it were me I would look to get the old one welded.....

The difference between 12v and 24v is that 12v are cast iron and do not have the oil filter take off, 24v ones are alloy and have the oil filter and cooler take offs.

[chris.richard]

The usual trawl round ebay for people breaking 164s with knackered engines, I suspect.
First time I've heard of one cracking - any obvious reason why?

[Sando]

Thanks Guys.
I may look for a 12v one and add a cooler take off then?
Maybe a bit stronger.

This one cracked because it has been welded before (possibly during the Auto conversion?) They did a tidy job so I was never worried about it, but I'm not sure why they didn't use another complete one...probably for Roger's reasons. Its also taking the load well to the side of the main strength of the shape so it is under quite a bit stress. the crack is between the bearing housing and the main part connected to the block (with all the oil ways in :eek: could have been worse I suppose)

The other reason will be from Chatsworth probably as it's the only time its really been put under any major stress.
......Unless you count the Devils staircase on the Welsh run, I think we were airbourne a couple of times then too...(soz Chris I did hear you say there was a big drop on your side ;) )
...I did bottom the suspension on one of the early Chatsworth runs going down the yump until I stiffened the damping. This and the water splash concrete trough were enough to find any weak points! The landing from the pic in the calendar going the other way over the yump was actually quite soft compared to all the other bumps.
I'll be much steadier over that section this year.... ;)


Just thought someone may have an old engine block with one on doing nothing before I start ringing round. 12v or 24v will fit so I'm not fussy.

John H? Chris S??

[roger001]

I should have a spare 12v mount knocking about - if you want I'll see if I can find it.

[Sando]

Thanks Rog.
I may be ok, I've got to check at the weekend, John H has got one from a 166 sportronic for me to try. Looks very close, but just need to measure up or get the old one off to compare. Hopefully the later sprotronic box cross shaft lines up in the standard position and not the 164 Auto position.
How far out is the auto cross shaft? is it obviously much further away from the block or is it just down to a few MM?

Thanks
Rob

[chris.richard]

it's very close- about 3mm IIRC. If you've got them side by side, it's measureable.

[Sando]

Thanks Chris.
I'll have a closer check then.

[chris.richard]

They're both the same casting, it's where the hole is machined through the flat face that is slightly different. This is a manual mount.

[Sando]

Superb, thanks

[Sando]

Blimey it is close isn't it.
I tried the one sportronic one from John today and it is literally just a few mm different and stops everything going together and being free on the offside corner.

Imagine then the broken one I had that was twisting at least 5mm out of line. I'm now certain this has been like it for some time. I've had trouble with only the nearside wheel spinning and traction off the line since the first summer I did the conversion. I could only move the drive shaft by hand that side by using some leverage this morning, it moved but was quite stiff......so basicaly I've been making the diff work hard and having one wheel drive taking all 200+ BHP whenever I lost any traction. (I know thats the way it supposed to work all you smart arses out there :p but not perminantly to the same wheel!)

No excuses but this explains a lot to me about the problems I've had with traction, especially at Chatsworth where its the first time it's been on the loose and not on grippy tarmac. I expected it to be a challenge on the loose bits with the tarmac set up, but it was so unpredictable to drive and was continually jumping around at the back.

Glad I've found the problem even though it's set me back a few weeks.....I was trying to make a new exhaust!

....Still looking for a 24v Manual mount....

Bobster

[strat6v]

Bob

Which way does the 166 casting push the driveshaft out of line?

If it needs to be nearer the block, could we clamp it up on the miller and take a smidge off?

[Sando]

My initial thought too John. The only thing is the O ring that seals around the oil transfer to the mount, that ring would need re cutting too.
....It may need to be done by a pro! The bit that sits on the mounting would take a few mm slotting, but it maybe a last choice option.

Another thought for the future was how this will be affected by a six speed box too. It may pay to keep the 166 one just in case?

I've emailed three breakers, one says he may be to help with a 24v manual. If not I'll probably look at the 12v option see if I can mod one of those.

Chris what did you do in the end?

Rab

[strat6v]

When i changed the gta rear shaft carrier for the 164 24v carrier/mount, it all lined up perfectly with the six speed box, so no need to worry about that.

Gta carrier has a gasket between it and the block, instead of an o ring.

[chris.richard]

I found a proper manual mount.

[Sando]

Think I've found one.
Just got to wait for the chap to haul the knackered engine (cambelt) and start breaking it for parts. Says he's happy to take it off :) Just hope he doesn't change his mind now.

On closer inspection of the old one once it was cleaned up, the welding was useless, hardly any penetration at all.

Thanks for your help
Bobster

[SUSIT]

Rob,
If you get stuck give me a shout and you can have the one off my spare 12 valve

Stephen

[Sando]

Sorted. :)
Thanks to JH and his growing collection of cars and engines ;)
Top Man. Thanks again
Bobster