brake set up

[pimms]

As most of the electrics work now i would like to start with the brakes and clutch operation.
I mounted twin Tilton cilinder pedal box with balance bar.
How do i start the initial set up for first trials:
* balance bar in the middle?
* how far does the push rod of the cilinder go into the clevis? ( or does this action only influence the position of the pedal ? )
* do i need pedal stops?

Any good tips on filling and bleeding a empty brake system?

Thanks,

[chris.richard]

* balance bar in the middle?,
Yes

* how far does the push rod of the cilinder go into the clevis? ,
There should be less than a millimetre of play between the rod and the piston

* do i need pedal stops?,
On the accelerator to prevent over-stretching of the cable. Not on the hydraulic connections

Any good tips on filling and bleeding a empty brake system?

Backfill from the calipers up to the reservoirs using a syringe and tubing, then bleed in the normal way.

[strat6v]

The pushrods need to go right into the clevis's till you can see that the end is nearly flush out of the other side.

You will need some form of pedal stops for the throttle, brake and clutch pedals ( to come back up against) The one for the brake would be a fiat/lancia stop light switch. Once the pedal position is set, the cylinders would need adjusting on the stops so they had the recommended amount of free play( safety critical). Other pedals adjusted to suit. Have a look at the variouis master cylinder manufacturers websites, probably tilton, for a better explanantion.

You'll probably need a servo of some description with having short pedals.

You can buy a relatively inexpensive pressurised bleeding kit that would do both front calipers at the same time and same with the rears. Fills from the bottom ;) Mityvac :confused:

[Sando]

You can buy a relatively inexpensive pressurised bleeding kit that would do both front calipers at the same time and same with the rears. Fills from the bottom ;) Mityvac :confused:

Mityvac is absolutely brill, wish I had bought one 25 years ago......as it says though it's a vacuum Johnny:p sucks fluid and air through the system to each caliper with no need to pump the pedal. Ideal for one man operation. :) not like one of them pump air into the master cylinder from a spare wheel thingys (never liked that idea!)

Frost do a plastic version for about £40, but you can also get pofessional alloy versions for not much more. Check ebay as there was someone on there selling them not long ago.

Bobster

[mudhut]

not like one of them pump air into the master cylinder from a spare wheel thingys (never liked that idea!)



I've two of these things (don't ask). Well they are better than getting a helper, especially if there isn't one... :p

You are supposed to let the tyre down quite low first. If you don't, all hell breaks loose with caps blowing off and the sudden jet of air then sprays brake fluid everywhere (don't ask about this either). :rolleyes: :o

[Sando]

These do the Mityvac ebay shop (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MITYVAC-SILVERLINE-PROFESSIONAL-AUTOMOTIVE-KIT-USA_W0QQitemZ8032909707QQihZ008QQcategoryZ30921QQr dZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m 118)
or there is an American listing for about £15 plus postage to the UK ...probably the plastic version, but thats the one I've used for a few years and it's absolutely fine..
Rab

[Sptwoman]

Pim,


You'll probably need a servo of some description with having short pedals.


I noticed from your build site you've got a reverse Tilton box but the pedals look non-standard. What pedal ratios are they? I'm assuming your using twin servos!!! Any problems fitting the pedal box?

[strat6v]

Mityvac is absolutely brill, wish I had bought one 25 years ago......as it says though it's a vacuum Johnny:p sucks fluid and air through the system

DOh what a sucker!!

MityVAC!!

Oh well, i was half way there :D

[Arthur]

Pushrods just need a safe minimum amount of thread in the clevis. Mark thread with paint at minimum length so you can tell.
Adjust pedal height by screwing both pushrods in/out.
balance bar to be parallel with cylinders when under load. Adjust by screwing relevant pushrod in/out. Need to adjust both to avoid moving pedal height. Check anytime you make a significant change to the balance.
To set initial balance, get car up off the deck. One man in the driving seat. have a comfortable position above one roadwheel front and back. At the word, man in car presses pedal. You try to turn the roadwheel. The trick is to nip from front to back with steady brake pressure. Front wheel should lock up marginally before the rear.
Allowing for weight difference, weight transfer, size of rubber, etc, this ends up surprisingly close. But be aware - this is a "racer's" set up - quite squirmy under big brake. You may (I am) be happier with more front brake once everything is bedded in. It's also a dry set-up, so it's safe in that regard - you won't suddenly turn round in the wet (well, no more than usual, anyhow).

Hope this helps.