Transformer/Hawk side windows

[Shaun II]

My Transformer windows appear to be too long, that is, for them to close approx 8mm needs removing from the leading edge. Anyone had this or is there more to it than I think? Best way of removing material?

Thanks

[AndyH]

Hi,

I remember trimming mine... I won't have used a jigsaw for fear of cracking (it's perspex, not polycarbonate).

My usual favorite tool is an angle grinder, although I can't remember if I cut or just buffed it away... Final clean up with a file.

Andrew

[John]

A router works well with perspex.Then wet or dry paper in finer grades to add a polish.

[Shaun II]

A router!

I've used one with wood but wouldn't go near something as important as a side window. I'll keep them half open for the time being.

[madham]

to trim perspex try an electric plane and finish by scraping with a flat piece of tool steel to get a shine on the edge wave a blow torch along it,
practice on a piece of scrap first !

[John]

A router!

I've used one with wood but wouldn't go near something as important as a side window.
No, really! If you use a small bit, less than 8mm it makes a lovely cut in perspex. Nice addictive smell too!
What do you think all the signmakers use? :p

[Steve Poole]

No, really! If you use a small bit, less than 8mm it makes a lovely cut in perspex. Nice addictive smell too!
What do you think all the signmakers use? :p

The one round the corner uses a band-saw ;) Though i would think any fine toothed saw would work just as well but make sure its well supported. Have you got a dremel with a cutting head on it? Mine has a steel wheel with a serated edge which i reckon would be ideal - bevel the edges after like its been suggested ie flat steel drawn along the edge ie sharp stanley blade will take of a nice shave and allow you to get the shape you want. ;) practice & take your time you'll be fine.

Hope this helps, Steve

[Ken Tomblin]

To get a good fit i filled the pivot point hole and then redrilled it !!!

Regards

[John]

Sawing perspex is not a good idea it can chip, or worse, crack.

[mudhut]

Drilling probs. The angle of grinding the drill makes it bite too hard, dig in and crack the plastic.

If you grind the point off the drill completely it acts a bit like an end mill. Provided you have the workpiece properly fixed and supported (clamped), then working on a pillar drill, the flat end works reasonavly well. Best practice first and the shorter the drill, the less it flexes. Did this ages ago and now can't remember if I used a lubricant. If I did, it might have been water or possibly white spirit.

[AndyH]

Use an angle grinder...

Mark what you want to cut off, hold the window steady.. it's amazing how little it takes off and how controlled it is... File to clean up, and I do seem to remember some fine wet and ry to finish, no probs.

Andrew

[roger001]

I seem to remember moving the pivot hole

[Shaun II]

I have had another look and the perspex needs shaping to give it more bow, shortening and perhaps the pivot hole moving forwards and down. I'll be happy with an mot pass for tomorrow.

[Sando]

Hope it all goes ok Shaunie.
Here one for good luck

Bonnet De Douche ! :D

[strat6v]

If you need a new hole, perhaps you could use a dremel with a small grinding tip instead of a drill?

[Steve Strain]

I recall elongating the pivot hole with a round file until the window fitted nicely against the surrounding rubber seal with the door shut. It wouldn't have been 8mm's but could easily have been half that.

The only issue I have had since is that the driver’s side window doesn't seal properly at the top corner against the windscreen pillar. At the top there is a couple of mm's gap with the window fully up. This problem is due to the shape of the windscreen pillar compared to the passenger side. Fully up the passenger side is water tight and doesn't lift and whistle at speed.

FWIW I would be concerned at having to remove any material from the edge of the windows incase it affects how the window closes and connects with the body door seal (unless of course the body or window moulds have changed over the years).

I hope this helps

Cheers

Steve

[AndyH]

Hi,

For further info.... I spent ages on the side windows... I realised early on that getting them to sit nicely on top of the rubber seal was going to take some re-shaping of the window, so I decided to tackle it differently.

The outer seal is fairly thick and pushes the window further in.. With this and some window trimming, the perspex edge closes into the edge of the seal and does not sit on top...

Seems to work very well.. no leaking, and no wind noise (although it's so noisy, I'd be happy to be able to hear some wind noise!)

Andrew