View Full Version : 164 rear brake calliper setting
AndyH
September 21st, 2007, 10:04 AM
Hi,
ref my problem with the rear calliper. My Alfa 164 maintenance CD doesn't run on Windows XP, so lost my "bible".
Can anyone advise if there is any setting I can do on the rear calliper for the handbrake... It is the model with the hex hole in the centre of the piston.
I'm gradually feeling better and better about todays SVA test... This is the only gremlin that's puzzling me at present.
Heh Ho
Andrew :)
igosling
September 23rd, 2007, 11:47 PM
Andy
Read with interest your account of the SVA. I am a long way off but your notes were very informative. Can't help feeling the best approach is to fit as little as possible to ensure nothing that may be problematic gets tested. Strange rules !!!
Re the rear calipers, I think I remember reading the rears are self adjusting. The pistons on mine don't have the hex drive in the middle, so may be I have a later (different) version.
I'll take a look at the 'bible' tonight
Regards
Iain
igosling
September 25th, 2007, 01:08 AM
Andy,
Bible does say that the calipers are self adjusting. Not much you can do with them. All the adjustment looks like it is through the cable.
Iain
chris.richard
September 25th, 2007, 05:36 AM
You need to get the pistons back in first, then they'll readjust themselves.
lancia chris
September 25th, 2007, 05:48 AM
Screw the pistons right back, fit caliper and then pump pedal 25 - 30 times to readjust. Handbrake cable should then be adjusted by adjustment nut under the lever to give no more than 4 clicks on the ratchet.
should then be fine.
Problem usually associated with this type of caliper is the self adjusting mechanism which works on a Belville washer and is inside the pistons.Cannot be repaired if faulty. Exchange for new or refurbished only answer.
Make sure lever at bottom of caliper is greased and moves freely as this can also seize if water penetrates into the rotating shaft.
SUSIT
September 25th, 2007, 06:11 AM
This thread may help http://www.stratossupersite.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4793
AndyH
September 25th, 2007, 12:15 PM
Thanks for the help... I took the caliper off and got my daughter to pump the pedal.. I'd usually expect the piston to come right out after 2-3 pushes, but what was happening was that the piston came out when pedal pressed and then all the way back in again when the pedal was released.
Thried screwing the piston in and back out again... but no better.. Checked the other side and as Chris suggest, screw in, pump pedal and voila 4 clicks on the handbrake.
£54+VAT.. I've ordered another one.
Many Thanks
Andrew
AndyH
September 28th, 2007, 09:41 AM
Just fitted a new caliper and all seems well.
For reference the fitting instructions are:-
Wind in / out the piston to achieve minimal clearance between pads and disc.
I did this before I connected the caliper to the hydraulics.
Connect caliper to hydraulics, but leave the handbrake cable off / loose
Bleed caliper
At this point (for good measure), I pumped the pedal hard 30 times.
Connect handbrake cable, fit roadwheel and lower to ground.
Adjust cable to minimum slack when off.
Wheel is locked pretty solid after 4 clicks.
Seemed to work well.
Andrew
Sptwoman
October 25th, 2007, 01:24 PM
I've been looking round for mechanical handbrake only calipers for the rear. I thought of using Cosworth rear calipers that will fit over the vented disc. Can I use this type of self adjusting caliper for handbrake only or does it require the hydraulics to be in use as well to self adjust?
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