Parking Brake handle

[mogul_x]

All,

I've got a question or two about the parking brake lever installation in my Hawk. I'm using a Lancia Beta parking brake, as described in the build manual. Installing the handle itself looks pretty straightforward, but I did have a question regarding the boot.

What kind of brake lever boot, if any, should I be using? Is there a moulded rubber item from the fiat parts bin that would be considered correct, or is this usually a custom made item? Any input on the subject would be appreciated, as it will probably effect the size and shape of the hole I need to cut in the fiberglass tunnel cover.

Also, are there any "gotchas" I should be aware of when installing the brake lever? Any pointers are, as always, welcome.

Thanks in advance,

[Jeff Davison]

Here's a pic of a genuine Stratos parking brake handle. No boot is used, just a bit of material stiched around the carpeting at the handles base.

Jeff Davison

[guy mayers]

And you'll notice it's nothing like the Beta handbrake lever! In fact it looks identical to my 124 Spider handbrake! BUT there is a big difference between the two, the Beta lever is longer so the mounting point is further back than a 124 one would be. Also, being a longer lever it takes less force to operate and so the handbrake is easier to use. Fit the Fiat one and it may be more authentic but you will have to fabricate a new mounting, probably lower the centre tunnel to suit and it will be harder to use. Stick with the Beta one and get it chromed. You will also notice two levers, one either side of the handbrake. These were for the choke and the hand throttle, sort of an early cruise control! If anyone is DESPERATE to duplicate the set up entirely then start looking for two Fiat X1.9 1300s. They had the correct lever but only one lever each. And you'll be VERY lucky to find the plastic knob intact and in one piece although, if they are missing try sliding the seats off the runners and looking under the carpet! That's how I got lucky 15 years ago! Twice.
Guy

[chris.richard]

What's the toggle thing at the back for? Body release?

[guy mayers]

It is a switch. I think it is a manual cut off for the electric fuel pumps used on the Stratos for emergencies. I guess no one thought about rigging a relay controlling the fuel pump feed to the oil pressure switch so that the pump stops when the engine does. Of course, I stand to be corrected.......
Guy

[mogul_x]

All,

Started actually installing the handbrake in the car last night, and noticed a potential problem. The shift rod that passes beneath the handbrake bracket is very close to the bottom of that bracket. So close, that it appears the shift rod will foul against any fasteners used to attach the handbrake.

I had planned on using a nut and bolt to attach the handbrake, with the bolt inserted from underneath, and the nut from above. I may be able to get some additional space by grinding the heads of the bolts very flat, but I'm still not sure if they will clear the shift rod.

Anybody encounter a similar condition? If so, how did you remedy it? Captive Studs? Is there an adjustment to the shift linkage that moves the rod out of the way?

Perhaps I should check that the rear end of the rod is connected on the correct side of the lower tab on the intermediate link.....

Looking for a clue, as always....

[Andrew Way]

I had the same problem when fitting the hand brake. I also fitted the bolts from below for increased clearance. By adjusting the nut on the bottom of the spherical joint on the gear lever I lowered the linkage shaft to make it parallel with the chassis and prevented it from catching the bolts.

Andrew.

[roger001]

I simply left off the rear right hand nut and bolt which causes the potential fouling! its not as if the hand barke is under much strain.

[mogul_x]

Roger,

I thought about leaving some fasteners out, but both right hand bolts look as though they may foul the linkage. I might be able to install the right rear, but it's awfully close. If I have to leave both out, I'm not sure what effect that would have on the handbrake operation.

I think I may have a look at Andrew's suggestion for adjusting the nut on the bottom of the gear lever before I give up on four fasteners.

Thanks

[Jeff Davison]

another suggestion?

How about using 1/2 high jam nuts and bolts that dont extend further than the nut? That just may give you the clearance you need.


Jeff

[mogul_x]

Jeff,

That would probably work at the rear position. At the front, I don't think there is currently enough space for even a half-high nut. The shift rod is nearly touching the underside of the bracket. I probably have less than 1mm of clearance.

Hopefully there is enough adjustment to straighten things out.

Thanks,

[chris.richard]

Is there anywhere else you can drill a new bolt hole instead of the fouling one?

[chris.richard]

Am I right that you're using the Hawk V6 linkage kit? I've been doing some trial fitting of mine, and I haven't a fouling problem - Have you fitted the rose joint below the arm on the linkage? Putting it above is the only way I can see of fouling the handbrake.

[mogul_x]

Chris,

I think you've put your finger on the problem. Yes, I am using the Hawk v-6 shift linkage, and I believe that the rose joint is fitted above the arm on the linkage. I'm not 100% sure about that, though, since it's been a few days since I worked on the car. I'll double check tonight.

I didn't install that piece of the linkage. It came pre-assembled on the car, and I hadn't checked it against John Rutter's shift linkage instructions to make sure it was in there correctly. I'm sure I would have discovered that when I went to assemble the rest of the linkage.

Between this and an adjustment of the nut under the shift lever, the problem should be resolved. If there's still a problem, I'll post again.

Thanks to all for the suggestions,

[Andrew Way]

I've got the rose joint fitted below the arm on the linkage and it would have fouled any fixings used to mount the handbrake. Perhaps it's the gear sticks which vary?

Andrew.:confused:

[mogul_x]

Checked out the shift linkage on the car last night, and discovered two things:

1) I was wrong about the rose joint - it was already installed on the lower side of the intermediate link arm.

2) the shift lever on my car does not appear to have any adjustment in the nut under the spherical joint. It's already as low as it can be.

So, it looks like I'll be cutting down a couple of bolts after all. Other options are still available, such as weld studs or clinch type fasteners, but I think grinding bolt heads is probably easiest.

Andrew, your query about the variation in gearsticks is interesting. I'm not sure exactly which Beta model mine came out of - does anybody know if there was a difference between the shift lever from one model or year to another?

[roger001]

Another option is to use washers between the spherical joint and the intermediate shaft to effectively lower the horizontal portion of the linkage, this may mean using a longer bolt, I seem to remember this was how I got round the problem.

[Andrew Way]

That is pretty much how I solved the problem. I turned a spacer up (about 12mm long) to effectively compress the spring and drop the pivot point of the linkage on the gear stick. Alternatively you could cut the small tube off the gear stick and weld it back on lower down.

Andrew.

[chris.richard]

This is mine all connected up

[chris.richard]

Which gives this much clearance at the handbrake

[mogul_x]

Chris,

From the photos you attached, it appears that your shifter doesn't have a spring between the sherical bearing and the point where the rod is connected. Is this a solid spacer, or was the glare from the flash washing out the spring?

Anybody know why the spring is there in the first place? Was it part of a reverse lockout feature on the Beta, and is now totally vestigal on the HF?

Thanks,

[chris.richard]

there is a spring, but it seems to be completely compressed with the coils all touching.

[DuncanM]

There is a spring on the Beta shift mechanism. As you guessed, it's a reverse lockout thing - you need to press the gearstick down to get reverse...

[mogul_x]

Duncan,

Thanks for confirming that for me. After taking another look at it last night, I may follow Andrew's lead and machine up a spacer instead of grinding bolt heads down. It's a neater solution, and it's already been proven to work.

Thanks again to all,

[Andrew Way]

well I wouldn't go that far......;)

[mogul_x]

Andrew,

My goof! I thought your car was on the road already.

Still, I know Chris Richards' car was previously roadworthy, and appears to have the spring on the shift handle compressed. I'm guessing that it must have some kind of spacer between the spherical bearing and retaining nut to accomplish this.

I need a minimum of 8mm for the shift rod to clear the head of my handbrake retaining bolt throughout the range of shifter travel. I was planning on making my spacer 10mm thick. Hopefully this will be thin enough that the bottom of the handbrake lever doesn't catch on the edge of the hole in the center spine.

Cheers,