Headlamp pods & motor adjustment

[BAS]

I have tried to set up my headlamp pods as per the manual (105mm link with 30mm arm on the motor) but there is no way that these measurements will work.

How far should the pod rise. As I see it the shroud on the front of the pod should finish approximately flush with the bonnet when raised, this gives me an angle of about 123o between the inside back edge of the pod and the bonnet. But using the above measurements the pod would rise further & there would be a large gap between the shroud and the bonnet.

Any tips on this before I start reducing the length of the arm on the motor to suit.

[strat6v]

Slot the arm on the pod, then its fully adjustable.

[BAS]

Thanks John, I think I would have to extend the arm on the pod to reduce the throw but that is an option.

[guy mayers]

No! Shorten the adjuster arm. There is a set up method that works.
1. Assemble the pod and linkages with the motor bolted in place but with the nut on the spindle slack.
2. Adjust the rod length so that the motor arm can revolve 360 degrees without the pod fouling anywhere.
3. Run the motor to the stop position, place the pod flush with the top surface of the body and then tighten the spindle nut
4. Run the motor to the up position and disconnect the electrics.
5. Using the adjustor rod shorten or lengthen it until the correct up position is reached, counting the number of turns it needs to acheive this.
6. Halve this number and wind the adjuster back.
7. Before retightening check the arm can revolve around the spindle without the pod fouling and then retighten with the lamp in the up position.
8. Reconnect the electrics and switch the lamps to the down position and the pod should stop flush with the top surface.

Repeat as necessary to fine tune and don't forget to lock off the adjuster at each end.

Guy

[BAS]

I'll give that a go then Guy.

I can't quite understand why halfing the length of adjustment helps (No6) but maybe it'll become clear when I'm doing it.

Thanks Brent.

[chris.richard]

I followed Guy's instructions and it worked!

[strat6v]

I would have thought you'd have to have the pod pivot assembly in the exact same place car to car, if not, the ratio would be different and however much you adjust the link it would always be a bit too far up or down. Ie the pod top would be level with the bodywork when closed but when you popped them up the lip on the pod front wouldn't quite line up with the panel directly in front. My headlamp pod mouldings had the little arm recesses in slightly different places so they wouldn't have looked even anyway. :confused:

Just thought, this thread could be retitled 'the grand old duke of york'
'When they were up they were up, when they were down they were down and when they were only half way up they were neither up or down?!*.-+
something like that. :D

When i put my much hacked about pods back in i'll try Guys method first.

[chris.richard]

Just rivet them up! ;)
Saves weight and hassle! :)
That's what the works cars did. :cool:

[guy mayers]

I would have thought you'd have to have the pod pivot assembly in the exact same place car to car, if not, the ratio would be different and however much you adjust the link it would always be a bit too far up or down.
When i put my much hacked about pods back in i'll try Guys method first.

Hi John, the adjustment method I've describes finds the correct length for the rod whichever car it's on. So long as it's exactly the right length for the stop positions and the pod doesn't foul anywhere all you have to do is tighten the spindle nut with the pod in the up or down position and you're done. The only fly in the ointment is the adjustor links are quite often seized solid. Don't forget that one end has a left hand thread!

Guy

[strat6v]

Once i get fed up with them then thats what i'll do. :)

[guy mayers]

Once i get fed up with them then thats what i'll do. :)

Well, just disconnecting the electrics has the same effect! That's what I've done!

Guy

[BAS]

That was my next option!

So when they were up they were up, but how much? :)

[chris.richard]

Up enough that you can adjust the beam to pass the MOT :p

[BAS]

MOT I remember the days, if only. SVA of me but that does mean that I can aviod the MOT for three years after. ;)

[BAS]

Guy

Thanks for the method of adjustment, all seems to be ok. I think the main problem I had was the stop adjuster being mounted to far down the pod from the pivot point. This caused the rubber to deform to much and push the bonnet panel up due to the pod needing to travel passed the desired stop point on the way back down. Just need move the stop adjuster nearer to the pivot.

[Sptwoman]

What's the best method of connecting the adjustable linkage rod to the headlamp hinge? The hinge end has a M6 mounting hole while the rods are a lot larger as follows...

[chris.richard]

Turn up some spacers.

[pimms]

I got some copper or braas spacers with my rods, a M10 bolt fits right through, so i enlarged the hole in the headlampmechanosm to fit M10.

Maybe a bit off topic but has anyone a picture for me that explains how to mount the lamp bracket shown in the last picture??

[chris.richard]

There's a thread on that from about a year ago IIRC

[Sptwoman]

Pim, The build manual has a page with a template of the headlamp and how / where the bracket is mounted.
Your hinge section is different to mine. The webbing on the lifting arm is on the opposite side!! This makes the mounting direct with no spacer involved.
I realise your N/S is opposite to mine so maybe that's the reason :rolleyes:

[chris.richard]

thread here (http://www.stratossupersite.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2273&highlight=headlamp+bracket)
here's the pic referred to (http://www.stratossupersite.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=1129&sort=1&cat=500&page=2)
Guy's post tells you what to do with it! :eek:

[Sptwoman]

Thanks Chris, I've seen the pic. I spoke to SVC with Gerry the other month and they reckon they've got a nice off the shelf nest to fit etc...will have to ring. I just wanted some idea on the connection of hinge and rod. I've now got an idea in my head but don't realy need it till the paint and rebuild :o