Front panel alignment and bonnet pins

[Sptwoman]

Having rehung my doors, I'm attempting to align the front panel as per Gerry's news letter. If I use the wheel arch as the article suggests, I'm left with a too wider gap between the door and the panel itself. It does not appear to be under-cut but over-cut. I'm considering building the panel up to reduce the gap. Any ideas / tips?
I'm also looking to mount the bonnet pins to the chassis. Any pics, hints & tips? Also, are there any specific SVA friendly ones out there?

[Chris J]

Similar subject:

http://www.stratossupersite.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2761&highlight=front

and another:

http://www.stratossupersite.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2832&highlight=front

[Sptwoman]

Thanks Chris,
I've read so many articles on this subject and saved them, I thought!! I've read them both but the 1st was some time ago. So the answer to fitting is per Gerry's article and if there is some filling out, do so on the arch side.
Any ideas on pin installation, hints and SVA friendly pins???

[strat6v]

Allen,

When offering up my front body section i found that where the back of the arch met the tub projection, the front section was kind of past the projection. Centrally by the wiper, the front panel had a big gap. i finished up truing up the arch sections then adding to the front section bit by the wiper/scuttle. In conclusion, my front section near the wiper area had been cut too far back.
Also you may find that the nearside tub/arch protrusion doesn't line up too well with anything. My method was keep the front section inline with the tub, match the offside door to the front section then line the passenger door up with the front section. This then leaves that little protrusion :confused: With mine, i had to thicken the grp at the back of it then take back the face till it lined up with the other bits. :mad: The end result was great! :)
I think every car will be slightly different, its just where do you start.(chicken and egg syndrome)

For sva, leave off the bonnet pins. Afterwards, remove the two m8 bolts that bolt the tub on at that point, turn the other way up( if long enough)pop a nut back on and adapt some bonnet pins or dzus fasteners of some description onto those exposed bolt threads.

[Sptwoman]

Thanks John,
It appears that there's slight differences with the cut of all our cars. It's the building up that interests me. I intend to use short strand fibre filler. Is this the best solution?
So it's best to leave off the pins? I may consider extending the existing bolts and fit a dommed nut just to secure and satisfy SVA

[strat6v]

Allen,

I used p40 glass filler type stuff on my panel edges. First off i abraded the back of the panel for an inch or so then added the sticky cack on to that and past the original edge. i didn't pay too much attention to the top of the outer edge being pretty at that point, just so there was some glass to file/sand back to the line afterwards. I must admit that at this point it looked bloody awful and i thought 'what have i done, it must be wrong' But i persevered till all the filing and sanding was done. The thickening and extending on the back makes sure that the added bit doesn't come off, i suppose you could say that its got more surface area to stick to. All this had a secondary benefit, this being that the thin in places original panel edges were now a bit thicker and more uniform. better to gap and better for the paint to stick to. When the panels were last on and locked down the gaps were an even 5 t0 6 mm all round. So happy was i that i did the back end too!
I also added some onto the bottom of the passenger door to even up the shut line there too. All in all, a real ball ache job but the end result was worth it.

With regard to the bonnet pins. Fit them first then take them off for sva. If they aint there they can't fail them. ;)

John.

[catswhiskers]

With regard to the bonnet pins. Fit them first then take them off for sva. If they aint there they can't fail them. ;)

John.

But dont leave the holes open. Either fit a rubber grommet in them or simply cover with a piece of gaffer tape or similar.
Depending on where you have your SVA done, this can fall into the '2mm rad/sharp edge' interpretation. ;)

Mick :)