View Full Version : Dash and Binnacle fitting
Sptwoman
June 5th, 2006, 06:41 AM
Help and advise please.
I'm aware that once the windscreen is fiited, the dash can be a pig to remove. Since the mounting surface around the screen in quite deep, is it ok to cut the dash back 10 mill thus leaving a 10 mill gap between the dash and the screen to allow removal in the future? I realise this would then require a cosmetic finisher. What else should I be looking to secure it to? Roll bar / cross member?
Is it wise to cut a "hole" in the dash where the binnacle mounts? If so how much as I do not want to make it flimsy and unstable? I'm using short bodied speedo and tacho so there's no issue of space.
When it comes to mounting what fasteners are best? Does the binnacle need to be fastened for life? Are the dash and binnacle finshed / covered seperately and then fitted together.
Sorry for all the basic questions but I've read so many, "If I only knew then....." so your thoughts and experience would be appreciated.
Also does any one have any of the following gauges I could purchase please? Oil temperature, clock and ammeter.
chris.richard
June 5th, 2006, 07:08 AM
Clocks are reasonably easy to find, but usually the plastic face is clouded. Veglia Ammeter and oil temperature guage will set you back the best part of £1000 ( but don't let me put you off!!)
stableblock
June 5th, 2006, 07:53 AM
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6634724890&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:UK:1
Is an ammeter with a chrome surround. It can be painted black. Oil temp guages with chrome surround come up from time to time too.
Lots of clocks on ebay but mostly with cloudy faces, presumably the plastic is easy enough to renew.
Sptwoman
June 5th, 2006, 08:38 AM
As I suspected, it's out with the conterfeiting kit for the aux clocks then?
Chris,
I'm sure I read that you'd had fun with mounting your dash (So to speak!) but you didn't expand on it. Is this correct?
Any mounting and assemly tips?
Allen
rutthenut
June 5th, 2006, 08:55 AM
I used rivetted-in captive nuts, with M4 screws into those. I did include a small gap between the edge of the dash panel, and used a thin rubber strip that had a small bit of piping to finish that area.
That was some years ago. I removed the complete panel recently to spray it since I never put any trim in my car (competition use, you see) and decided I really should do something to prevent the annoying reflections from the glossy dash.
It came out easily enough, using a 'Z-shaped' screwdriver. Stubby screwdrivers wouldn't fit; at least not for the screws at the front edge by the screen (more room for those at the rear/side of the arc).
One recommendation - put in enough fixings on the binnacle so that it is firmly held in place and will not move when pushed or lifted. I didn't put a screw into the right hand side and the whole binnacle can move when forced. Not really a problem, but one other part of the car to generate unwanted noises when on bumpy roads.
I don't know if you have the pieces as part of the kit, but I believe that Gerry now offers additional trim panels that go over the inside of the A-pillar. I guess they would be a good idea for any car that is going to trimmed inside, or even if remaining bare.
J.R.
guy mayers
June 5th, 2006, 11:46 AM
Help and advise please.
Also does any one have any of the following gauges I could purchase please? Oil temperature, clock and ammeter.
You'll only need two from the above list as there is only space for 5 smaller gauges on the dash Allen. The ammeter Peter posted a link to is 40 Amp one and may not cope with the Alfa alternator power supply. I think Nico had one fail and break the charging circuit?
Replacement glass faces have been advertised on Ebay for the clock but it's common to find that they are worn out anyway after 30 plus years of tick tocking!
The oil temperature gauge will also need a sender fitting to the engine, either in the oil cooler circuit somewhere or by welding/tapping the sump and using a Beta sender.
Guy
colin artus
June 5th, 2006, 12:13 PM
I have an Veglai oil temp guage you can have - pm me and I can arrange to get it to you.
chris.richard
June 5th, 2006, 01:51 PM
My dash was in when I got the car and has been in place since, so I can't comment about that.
As far as the binnacle is concerned, cut out the dial face of the binnacle moulding and mount the dials on the front panel, which is held in with 5 or 6 bolts into captive nuts on flanges left on the binnacle when you cut out the face. Then when you need to get to the back of the dials, undo the bolts and pull it off. Mine requires the binnacle to be dismounted from the dash to get at the back, which is a complete buggeretion as Arthur would say! I must amend it sometime. Currently my High beam warning blue light doesn't work - I may have pulled a wire off when fumbling around rotaing my tacho so that I can see the 6500 - 7500 sector.
Sando
June 5th, 2006, 03:43 PM
Hi Allen
I agree with Chris.
You will need a hole in the dash for your Speedo cable and the pod loom anyway.
You could graft some bolts under the dash so the binnicle sits on them and the nuts can be got at from the front, which can be cut out around the external edges of the clock holes as Chris describes with the clocks just mounting on the alloy panel, this is then still mounted as normal, but you can pull that forward and get at all your insrument wiring and connectors, if you have to that way. Makes getting at things a lot easier. My speedo was touching the dash behind the binnicle too so be careful on lining up the cable and the dash cut out hole so that this fits in without fouling.
I used M5 round head allen screws to mount the dash itself, again into bonded in nuts underneath the mounting face and could be undone if I ever really, really had to take it out, but it would have to be for something major, I wouldn't ever aim to do it now it's in. Once these screws are all tight, it's surprising how secure the dash is without any other fixings, mine was tight up against the edges of the door pillar anyway, but I did tidy up the bit around the cage, once trimmed (all separately then fixed) this was snug fit. The Pod will also add some strength around any large holes if securely fixed.
There should be a few cars to pick up some ideas from at Abingdon if you are going.
Hope that helps
Rob
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