Hawk rear cover hinges

[mudhut]

I was wondering why my rear cover kept going out of alignment, particularly that it seemed always to move away from the central tub causing some damage to the paint round the fuel filler cap holes.

On removing the hinges attached to the rear cover, they appeared to have cracked part the way through the thickness at the bend - probably through repeated heaving on them to "adjust" the alignment. Guilty as charged m'lud. It appears that the weight of the rear cover was bending the weakened metal at the bend when the cover was open.

My rear cover sits on 9mm of Aluminium packing and 1.5mm of rubber sheet and the angle shown in the pic seems about right in my case but I'd like to know what they look like when first supplied. Can see the crack too.

Having not seen unmolested items, what I want to know please is what angle are these parts set to when supplied by Hawk? 90 degrees? This will help me eliminate one variable in rear cover realignment. Quite a tricky operation - hope the front is easier...

Thanks.

[strat6v]

Mine are 90 degrees.

John.

[BAS]

Mine are 90 deg's, I think someone said to me that they welded in a web to prevent that bracket bending / cracking.

[mudhut]

Thanks Steve, Brent.

In order to have the front edge of the rear cover meet the tub acceptably, I do not think mine can be set to 90 degrees due to the existing hole positions in the bodywork. I'd rather not have them elongated (nor those in the hinge) if I can avoid it.

I think I will have to get the angle right for me, weld the crack and add a small web each side pending making something a bit more substantial and that will allow me to eliminate some of the 9mm of aluminium packing.

How much packing between hinge and bodywork do you chaps have?

[strat6v]

My Packing is a 15mm ally block each side. When i tried fitting the rear section on my car things looked odd. After measuring quite a few other sections, i realised the top edge of mine had been supplied short. If it was offered up the rear end kicked up and looked ridiculous. I had to thicken the rear arch return where it meets the tub then grind the original front edge away. All is ok now.

[BAS]

I have 10 - 15mm of packing on mine, I also slotted the body to get a better fit but I will need make up the edge where it meets the tub on one side.

[guy mayers]

I'd guess I've got 15 to 20mm on mine. The critical alignment is the swage line running the length of the car. Try to get that even by raising the back of the body as necessary and shimming to suit.
After years of abuse we had a problem when dismantling mine for respray, the bolts had seized in the hinges. They still moved on the support bracket but the only way to remove the rear panel was to unbolt it from the hinges and then use heat and force on the brackets. It went back together with lots of coppaslip!
Guy

[DaveAk]

Mine cracked same place, had strengthening webbs welded in, no problems since, despite back end on and off lots of times during rebuild.

Dave

[mudhut]

Thanks for the replies chaps - all really useful.

My rear cover seems short too, leaving a rather ugly gap to the tub that is particularly noticeable along the top edge. The greeater amount of packing that most of you have will help me throw the front edge of the cover forwards a little so I think that is what I'll do. Will have to watch the internal latches and also may have to reposition the over-centre catches - have to see. Hope I won't have to thicken the returns at the arches but if so it's not the end of the world - the cover would benefit from repainting as some blisters have emerged as well as the chips round the fuel filler.

Take your very good point Guy about the swage line as being the reference point to work to.

This will also give me a little more clearance to the exhaust as well.