Door Caps

[stableblock]

Hi
A couple of questions about the alloy door trim caps on the Hawk. Very basic stuff I know!!

By these I mean the thin and long alloy channels that sit on top of the door skin where the side window fits.

1 Do most people fit these before or after painting?

2 Has anyone been successful in bending a conventional rubber window seal to the same shape? (I know that the hairy type of seal is suggested but a Rubber seal would stop more water)

3 Are these paited body colour or black or something else?

4 Mine look a bit long when held against the door - has anyone had to trim theirs? - not sure this would be possible neatly?

All answers gratefully received.

Thanks

Peter

[CorseChris]

Hi Peter,

I used Hawk pattern (but GBE supplied) cap strips on my Corse. I'll answer your questions as asked..

1. Pre-fitted before paint in order to get correct fit etc but will final-fit after paint.

2. I used a 'waist' seal on mine. It's rubber, formed over a hard plastic core with flocking on the surface that contacts the window. With care, it can be warmed up with a heatr gun and gently eased into the right shape. I intend holding it onto the cap strip with small countersunk pop rivets.

3. Had mine powder coated gloss black.

4. Mine too, but I put that down to it being a Corse. I cut off the excess and re-welded the end to once again form a smooth finish.

Hope some of this is of use.

Regards

Chris

[stableblock]

Thanks Chris - where did you get the waist strips from?

Peter

[CorseChris]

M&MD..can't recall the product code of the top of my head but I can look it up for you..


...or was it Woolies....


Let me check my receipts and get back to you...

[Arthur]

Chris,

I used rubber on my CorseI
Not wonderful.
I used "wiper-type" moulding in various sizes, ending up with about 40mm from gripper to leaf edge, and even that needed slitting and glueing in a couple of places to get round the curve.
It doesn't stop much water. The trick is to let the water in, and give the door generous drainage to let it out again. The solution to stopping it coming in through the window slider slot is to drape either DPC plastic sheet, or I found rather better, the higher-quality pond liner sheet cut to fit and glued. Pretty good now, very little comes in at all.
Oh yes, should you decide to go for bent rubber moulding, you'll have to limit the window opening, or the back edge will foul the rubber at more than half open, and drag it all off again, or fold the lip under. Not very satisfactory at all, I'm afraid. I've stuck with it cos none of the other methods seem to be any better - but if its originality you want, go with the ally trim.

Arthur.

[CorseChris]

Door waist seal from Woolies as it turned out..

Item code 255. £4.68 for a 1m length.

As Arthur points out, there is an issue with the seal at the top/back edge of the window that needs some careful thought.

[stableblock]

Thanks Chris - I've got some of this but mine has a steel strip bonded in - very hard to bend and keep flat.

I'll try buying another bit and see if I have more joy with the plastic.


Peter

[CorseChris]

The PVC core on this type bends OK as long as you get it warm enough - bit of a balance to get sufficient heat into the PVC but not get the rubber outer so hot is melts. Tricky to avoid cooked fingers as well.....

I used a fairly powerful hot air gun and took my time. Probably took about 20-30 minutes to do each one I guess. Excuse the statement of the obvious but the best method I found is to keep it moving over an area of 3 or 4", gently bend, move along a bit and carry on - this avoids ending up with a sharp 'kink'. Worked for me anyway.

[rutthenut]

I found that the left-hand ally strip is a bit too long, and needs to be cut/bent/re-welded for a correct fit.

I used the 'hairy' type weather strip, which went on with no great problems (ensure the rivets to do not protrude at all on the window side, they will scratch the glass).

As usual, pre-fit the ally strip when building and remove for painting. I had mine powder coated in black. It can be held on with Sikaflex or similar, with a small screw at the top inner tab for best security. The back end of the rivets also help to grip the door top, if they are used to hold the weather strip in place.

[stableblock]

Thanks John

[stewart]

I fitted the hairy type, same as John, but used double sided weatherproof tape to attach it rather than rivets. I cut it halfway through at various points to get the bend in. No problem so far. Also had to shorten one side by a heap but cannot remember which..no doubt same as John. Attached strip with silicone and one small screw again as above.

cheers

[stableblock]

Thanks Stewart
I'm going to have a go at bending the wiper style rubber and will prefit and then finally fit after painting. (which is probably another 5 years away......)

Peter

[Sptwoman]

What's the best method of securing the alloy capping to the door? I'm aware that the top can be secured with a fastening. Is the Hawk supplied capping the correct shape and should not be forced down onto the door curvature?

[chris.richard]

Sikaflex type stuff. IIRC one side needed to be shortened by about 1cm. The capping needs to be pushed down into the curve.

[Sptwoman]

Thanks Chris, one less mystery :rolleyes: