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guy mayers
May 27th, 2004, 02:49 PM
The usual place but the scale should be +50 to -50 not 40 but when was the last time you saw one? Bidding too high for me now so anyone else want it? I was aiming to auction it at the AGM with profits for club funds but I won't be bidding now the price is over $40.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7902697702&category=34206

Guy

chris.richard
May 27th, 2004, 03:01 PM
Are these the sort that measure with the whole currentflowing through them, or do they measure a voltage drop across a shunt? (Sorry, A-level physics was a long time ago!)

guy mayers
May 28th, 2004, 09:53 AM
They measure the current flowing through the system and show if the alternator is charging or if there is drain exceeding the charge as I understand it. Plus the Stratos stradale had one in the dash.
Guy

chris.richard
May 28th, 2004, 11:42 AM
That's what they do, but there are two ways of doing it. One way works as an ammeter directly, the other is actually a voltmeter, and needs its separate shunt to measure voltage across. I think!:confused:
The ammeter-type needs the whole electrical supply to go through it, which means big cables from battery/alternator to the back of the dashboard. The remote shunt type just needs small wires from the shunt to the dashboard. Can any boffin out there confirm?

guy mayers
May 28th, 2004, 12:30 PM
The one in my car has big heay wires running through it from the alternator to the battery as per the original Transformer wiring loom.
Guy

Cloggie
May 28th, 2004, 11:59 PM
I also have the same set up as Guy's, and Chris Smith and I just found out that this was the root cause of all my electrical problems with my Green car for the last year!!

After I replaced my Altenator in the car with reconditioned one, it obviously gave out more current, which in turn overloaded and fused my +/-40 rated Ammeter, which effectively prevented the altenator from recharging the battery. But you'd think this would be an easy problem to find...... I was kicking myself!!

Anyway, problem is now being solved by replacing the internals of the Ammeter with a +/- 60 rated mechanism and retaining the +/- 40 fascia.... Thanks to Speedycables! (Or not so speedy as it's taking them 4 weeks to do it!!)

I Like the idea of the shunt to eliminate the big wires behind the dash, but again you'd probably need to do a significant bit of work to set it up, and modify the Ammeter? Anyone done it already?

Cheers, Nico/