Coolant pipe size

[AndyH]

I'm starting to think about getting hold of some pipe to run for engine cooling.

I've measure the hole (up the spine of the car) as about 65mm wide and 40mm deep... I'll get a couple of 1"nb pipes in here, but not really any more.

Is this sufficient for a V6??

Also, I'm guessing that I can just tee off at the front of the car into and out of a heater unit and don't need to run a hose from the cyliner head as the original installation in the Alfa??
If so, what have people done with the connections from the cylinder head. Blank off?
I guess I can still run it to the throttle body and back to the expansion tank??

Cheers

Andrew

[chris.richard]

I've got two 35mm pipes plus one 15mm up mine.:eek: Still room for more (you could run the servo vacuum pipe through there too, mine goes through the car, and I'll leave it there). It used to have two 15mm pipes for the heater, but I ditched the return pipe, T-ing it into the radiator return pipe. The problem with taking the hot feed off the radiator pipe is that you won't get hot water to the heater for demisting/defrosting until the thermostat has opened. Not helpful up here in Scotland! I've also ditched the hot water feed to the throttle body - I don't see any advantage in heating the intake charge - if anything you want to cool it. I presume it's there for cold starts.
Hope that helps!

[Andrew Way]

I’ve just finished my radiator pipes and ran two Ø35mm copper pipes and one Ø15mm for coolant. This does go and there’s also a Ø10mm for servo, a Ø6mm for clutch and room left for brakes and anything else small.

The heater will work regardless of the thermostat being open because the tee in the Ø35mm is for the return. The Ø15mm feed is from the cylinder head as per the 164.

Andrew.

[AndyH]

Thanks for the quick reply guys. much appreciated.

Another small step in the right direction.

Andrew

[Arthur]

Guys,

If its any use, the Corse was supplied with 1.25-inch (31mm?) aluminium pipes, for the 3-litre engine, which work fine in terms of water volume shifted.
When it finished and fitted out, you will probably come to regret the positions of some of the jubillee clips you put in while on the stands, stripped out, no engine, etc.

I will therefore pass on some tips, hope you find them worth the effort.

I suggest you use aluminium for fixed, buried pipework. NOT copper, which age-hardens and cracks. Big problem waiting to bite your bum.
I suggest you pay the extortionate sum for the widget with the rollers from Earl's (about 80 quid for 1.25-inch pipe) with which to roll a bead at the pipe end. This will save any amount of grief by preventing the hose blowing off the end.
You can bend aluminium tube by hand, and in reasonable sizes, say up to 5/8 inch, with just a waft or two of an average propane blowlamp. Just needs to be a couple of hundred degrees, and you won't be in any danger of melting it, what with the rate of heat transfer. Bigger stuff - just about 1.25-inch with help and patience - can be done like this if its sand-filled, but the sand will have to be bone dry.
Always pay the extra and use Silicon hose, which will last for ever.
Always use Stainless steel pipe clips - it may be years til you need to get at one, and stainless will still be free to move.
Since Silicon tends to "plastic flow" under the clips, always use the even more expensive clips that have a full turn of un-pierced band under the outer clamping band. These too will be "for life".
If you can, twist-wire the clips when tight - use your wire-twister from the last worm slot around and under the hex head of the clip. Feel free to cut the free band if you need to to keep it neat. This serves the dual purpose of holding the free end of the band flush flat with the rest of the clip, and saves a lot of lacerations in the future.
Consider using your friendly flexible pipe manufacturer to make up sizes of 3/4 and on down in stainless overbraid PTFE (does NOT need to be bonded a-la brake lines, and DO NOT use Aeroquip) with crimped bulkhead threaded unions where required.
This too will last forever, and has the flexibility to cope with vibration and movement (not, of course, that YOUR frame will be sloppy enough to move about, what!). (I use an outfit called Manflex in Warrington, but basically anyone who does waggon hydraulic hose will be able to make these up on the spot at reasonable money, and in fact Manflex Warrington supply Aeroquip in Burnley, so I don't have any quality issues).

Right,
That's qhite enough for a Sunday morning.
All the best,
Arthur.